Bereche Champagne Mailly Grand Cru 2019

- 96 Punkte VINOUS, Antonio Galloni (04/2025): „The 2019 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Mailly-Champagne Grand Cru is another fabulous wine in this range from Bérêche et Fils. This north-facing site handled the intense heat of the year especially well. Chalk, licorice, mint, white pepper, cranberry and dried flowers all run through this potent, driving offering. In 2019, the Mailly-Champagne is very clearly a standout. Impressive, and that is an understatement. 2026-2034.“

- 96 Punkte Parkers WINE ADVOCATE, Kristaps Karklins (05/2025): „Issuing from three old-vine parcels—Les Chalois, Les Baraquines and Les Côtes—rooted in deep, iron-rich red clay soils, the 2019 Blanc de Noirs Mailly-Champagne Grand Cru stands as the finest of Bérêche’s village bottlings this year. Disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of 3.25 grams per liter, it soars from the glass with a deep bouquet of blood orange, ripe peach and pear, interwoven with nuances of dried flowers and smoke. Sourced predominantly from north-facing sites, it presents a medium- to full-bodied profile, marked by remarkable tension and definition. A vibrant core of youthful, bright fruit is underpinned by mouthwatering acidity, lending it impeccable precision that extends through a searingly chalky, enduring finish. The most accomplished wine from this estate this year, it comes with the highest recommendation. 2026-2039“

Bérêche & Fils, based in the village of Ludes, just 15 kilometers south of Reims, stands as the premier grower-producer in this hidden gem of the Champagne region. The estate meticulously tends to 26 plots spread across 11.5 hectares, while also sourcing fruit from an additional two hectares in Ambonnay, Cramant and Trépail.

Raphaël Bérêche joined his father, Jean-Pierre, at the estate in 2004, and in 2009, Raphaël and his brother, Vincent, fully assumed control of both the farming and winemaking operations. Their father officially retired in 2012. Although the family initially experimented with organic farming, they found it challenging to maintain consistent yields due to persistent mildew pressure. Today, the estate largely adheres to organic practices, with the exception of mildew control treatments.

The Bérêche family has employed sustainable agricultural methods for over two decades, utilizing lightweight tractors to prevent soil compaction and eliminating herbicides from their practices since 2002. In the cellar, fermentation occurs naturally, progressing slowly at cool temperatures. While some 30% of the vins clairs for their non-vintage Champagnes are vinified in tanks, the rest of their wines are aged in 350-liter barrels for eight to nine months. Before utilizing new barrels (as they do not purchase second-hand ones), they rinse them with tailles, which are subsequently sold off. Their winemaking approach eschews filtration, and racking is conducted by gravity. After barrel aging, the wines spend an additional two months in tanks, with minimal solids during this phase. For all cuvées, except the Brut Réserve, tirage is done using cork instead of a crown cap.

The family’s latest endeavors include constructing a new cellar to support their goal of extending the aging sur lattes for the NV Brut Réserve and investing in their own disgorgement equipment.

The range of village bottlings is the focus at this estate, typically reaching its highest point with their increasingly precise and mineral laden Le Cran (Ludes) and Mailly-Champagne bottlings. They also produce an ethereal Rosé Champagne, Campania Remensis, while their richest, most gastronomic, and oxidative wine is Reflet d'Antan. This is also one of the best addresses to look for value, as their NV Brut Réserve—a cuvée amounting to some 100,000 bottles—often rivals wines from more renowned origins. In addition to their historic offerings, Bérêche brothers also craft small cuvées from Aÿ-Champagne, Ambonnay, and Cramant, though the latter two have yet to achieve the same contemporary precision as the others. The latest addition to their portfolio is Une Champagne, a blend from seven villages. This cuvée reflects winemaking practices typically associated with large houses, such as blending from multiple villages (and even sub-regions), incorporating purchased fruit, and extended aging on the lees in the bottle. Although it has yet to build a track record, this wine's evolution promises to be intriguing to follow.