- 96 Punkte James Suckling: „A super-elegant Chassagne-Montrachet that offers all you want from this appellation, the balance of ripe-lemon character and flinty minerality spot-on. Super-silky and very graceful on the medium-to full-bodied palate. Then the finish doesn't want to stop. Drink or hold.“
- 96 Punkte, Wine Enthusiast (11/2023): “The freshness of perfectly ripe citrus in this wine allows one to appreciate concentration that remains modest in the glass. The palate is robust and exudes squeezed Meyer lemon. Salty and highly concentrated, it finishes with almond brioche. While balanced, the wine whispers with potent energy and attitude. Enjoy after 2026.“
- 92 Punkte, BURGHOUND, Allen Meadows: „A deft application of wood frames the overtly floral-suffused nose of petrol, white peach, lemon zest and subtle spice wisps. The medium-bodied flavors are also rich to the point of opulence, yet the firm acid spine saves the balance on the saliva-inducing, long and powerful finish. This fine effort is very Morgeot in character and worth a look. Drink: 2028+“
Producer note: As is usually the case, I met with Véronique Drouhin who pulled no punches in describing 2020 as "a magnificent vintage and, most unusually, one that is great in both colors. One of the most difficult, and perhaps the most critical of all, aspects of this vintage was deciding when to begin the harvest. Ultimately, we chose to pick basically from the middle of August and in another unusual aspect for this vintage, we began with the pinot. Because there was so little disease pressure during the hot and dry growing season, the fruit was super-clean with good ripeness levels, which is to say between 12.5 and 13.5% in white and 13.5 to 15% in red. Yields though were another story because while around 40 hl/ha in white is comfortable if not high, in pinot they came in between 20 and 30 hl/ha. One of the characteristics that is tough to explain is why the heat had such an impact in terms of volumes on the pinot, yet the chardonnay behaved as though the growing conditions were normal. For the vinifications, we used between zero and 50% whole clusters and while we are always careful with the extractions, we were particularly attentive in 2020 with its very thick skins to be sure that we didn't advertently produce overly tannic reds. As to the wines, the reds are dense and powerful but balanced while, despite the elevated ripeness levels, the terroir is incredibly clear. Moreover, while the same could be said of the whites, they are much less marked by the warmth of the vintage, and it would be perfectly appropriate to describe them as classic." As the scores and commentaries confirm, I found several excellent whites in the Drouhin portfolio, and they are worth searching out.
- 17 Punkte Jancis Robinson: “Big and sinewy but with excellent acidity. Convincing, solid stuff. Long and fresh too. Great stuff! 2025-2037 (JR)
Winespectator: | 93 WS |
Wine Enthusiast: | 96 WE |
James Suckling: | 96 JS |
Produkt: | Weisswein |
Inhalt: | 0,75 l |
Bughound: | 92 AM |
Rebsorte(n): | Chardonnay |
Region: | BurgundCote de Beaune |
Jancis Robinson: | 17,0 JR |
Jahrgang: | 2020 |
Land: | Frankreich |
Klassifzierung: | Premier Cru |
Inhalt: | 0,75 l |
Lage: | Produktionsgemeinde der Appellation : Chassagne-Montrachet. Der Standort : südlich der Côte de Beaune, wenige Kilometer von der Stadt entfernt. Eines der Dörfer, die zusammen mit Meursault und Puligny-Montrachet die prestigeträchtige „Côte des Blancs“ bilden. Geschichte und Tradition : sanft abfallender Weinberg und auf einem Hügel, der die Hanglinie unterbricht, einige alte Gebäude, teilweise in Ruinen, die Abtei von Morgeot. Hier lebten zwei Arten von Männern: Männer des Gebets und Männer des Schwertes, Mönche der Abtei und die Familie Laguiche. Die Revolution zerstörte das Kloster, aber die Familie Laguiche blieb teilweise verschont. „Morgeot“ ist ein Name, der vom gallischen „Morga“ stammt, was Grenze, Grenze bedeutet. Das Klima Morgeot liegt an der Départementsgrenze zwischen der Côte d'Or und der Saône-et-Loire. „Morgeot“ entspricht daher der alten gallo-römischen Grenze zwischen „pagus Belnensis“ (dem Beaunois-Land) und „pagus Cabilonnensis“ (dem Chalonnais-Land). Der Boden : Kalkmergel. |
Reben: | 100% Chardonnay |
Im Weinkeller: | Weinherstellung Versorgung: durch Zukauf von Trauben und Mosten bei Partnerproduzenten nach strengen Vorgaben. Ernte: manuell in durchbrochenen Kisten. Bei Bedarf sorgfältige Sortierung. Weinbereitung: Langsames Pressen ganzer Trauben in einer pneumatischen Presse. Die letzten Presssäfte werden vom Vorlaufsaft getrennt. Die Weißweine kommen direkt nach dem Absetzen in Fässer. Reifung: alkoholische und malolaktische Gärung, anschließend erfolgt die Reifung in Eichenfässern, von denen 20 bis 25 % neue Fässer sind. Dauer: 16 bis 18 Monate Holzquelle: Eichen aus französischen Hochwäldern. Während des gesamten Reifeprozesses werden Entscheidungen durch wöchentliche Verkostungen geleitet und durch technische Analysen ergänzt. Wie bei allen Weinen des Hauses bleibt unser Ziel: Finesse, Ausdruck des Terroirs und Respekt vor dem Jahrgang. |
% vol Alk: | 14,5 |
Notizen des Weinguts: | VineyardSite: at the southern end of the Beaune appellation, next to Pommard. The Drouhin vineyard is at mid-slope, on a mildincline with an east/south-east exposure. It is the largest parcel of the Clos des Mouches (14 hectares - 35 acres), one halfplanted with chardonnay, the other half with pinot noir. History & tradition: the name "mouches" means flies. There were once bee-hives in this sun-drenched "clos" (vineyardenclosure); the bees in the local dialect were called "mouches à miel" (honey flies), hence the name Clos des Mouches. Itis one of the first vineyards acquired by Maurice Drouhin (the founder's son) in the 1920's. With great determination, hebought 41 different parcels from 8 proprietors. It is planted equally in red and white grapes and both wines have achievedmythical status for the House of Joseph Drouhin.Soil: clay and limestone. Rocky soil in the upper part of the vineyard. At the center, the soil is limestone and marl. Thislight composition is responsible for the great finesse of the wine. Domaine area: 6.75 ha. (16.875 acres).Average age of the vines: 39 years. ViticultureBiological cultivation since 1990; biodynamic cultivation a few years later.Vine stocks: "sélection massale" (propagation of new vine stocks from a number of selected vines) done at the Drouhinnursery; also clones of recognized quality.Soil maintenance: compost of manure and white wood, sometimes guano (seabird manure used as fertilizer). Soil isploughed either by tractor or by horse to manage spreading of weedsTreatment: only authorized products for biological cultivation are used: infusions and macerations of plant materials,sulfur and copper, powdered rock. Natural predators are not eliminated.Plantation density: from 10,000 to 12,500 stocks/ha in order to extract all possible nuances from the terroir and limit theproduction of each vine stock.Pruning: Guyot.Yield: we aim to keep our yields low, more in line with the previous regulation, around 20% less than allowed by thecurrent law. VinificationHarvesting: by hand, in small open crates in order to preserve the integrity of the fruit.Sorting of the grapes: in the vineyard and at the cuverie (winery) if necessary.Maceration: maceration and vinification take 2 to 3 weeksindigenous yeastsmaceration and fermentation temperatures under totalcontrolJoseph Drouhin seeks total control of the process of extraction; extraction gives colour and substance to a wine butshould never be detrimental to its finesse and typical character."Pigeage" (punching down of the cap during fermentation): once a day until half of fermentation is done; one pumpingover (remontage) per day till the end of the fermentation.Pressing: separation of free run juice from pressed juice.AgeingType: in barrels (20% in new oak).Length: 14 to 18 months.Origin of the wood: French oak forests (Tronçay in particular).Weathering of the wood: Joseph Drouhin insists on total control of the weathering for a period of 3 years, one of thecontributing elements to the elegance of the wine.Follow-up: barrel by barrel.Fining ("collage", to clarify the wine): light, after careful tasting. Throughout the ageing process, decisions are taken only after careful tasting evaluation, barrel by barrel. The dataobtained is then completed through technical analysis. As with every other Joseph Drouhin wine, absolute priority isgiven to the true expression of terroir and character of the vintage.Tasting note by Véronique Boss-Drouhin"An exceptional wine. Beautiful, deep-red ruby colour, with the bright sheen of great Burgundies. Intense and fresh nosefor the young wines. Primary notes of red fruit dominate, such as Morello cherry ("griotte", or wild cherry), raspberry,blackberry. There are hints of complexity with smoky flavours evolving towards liquorice. When the wine is maturing,aromas of pepper, tobacco, humus and undergrowth appear. When drinking the wine, the first impression is alwaysclear-cut and the texture fleshy. The body is firm without being rough, well meshed without being heavy. There is greatfreshness in the younger wines. With age, the wine gets rounder. It takes on "gras" (velvety texture) and a more precisearchitecture, supported by silky tannins. It is lively and refined at the same time. There remains a final and most pleasingsensation of harmony, fullness and delicate tannins, as the wine lingers on the palate".VintageThe 2016 crop was low in quantity but its quality provides a nice surprise.The mature grapes gave deep ruby-coloured wines displaying notes of black fruit mingled with hints of violet and spices.The palate is round and generous.The wines are typical of their terroir.ServingTemperature: 16°C (61-62°F).Cellaring: 5 to 40 years. |
Potenziell allergene Substanzen: | Enthält Sulfite. Kann Spuren von Eiweiß, Gelatine und Milch enthalten. |
Warnungen: | Der Konsum von alkoholhaltigen Getränken während der Schwangerschaft kann selbst in geringen Mengen schwere Konsequenzen für die Gesundheit des Kindes nach sich ziehen. |
Hersteller: | Maison Joseph Drouhin, 7 rue d'Enfer, F-21200 Beaune |
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