- CHAMPAGNIST: "Charles Heidsieck’s “Blanc des Millénaires” is one of the most complex, seductive, age-worthy prestige cuvées I've ever encountered. It is a Blanc de Blancs made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes harvested in 4 Grand Cru and 1 Premier Cru village. Oger brings that beautiful Burgundian patine, concentration and structure to the wine. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger stands for balance; Avize for mineral complexity. There’s Cramant with the finesse and flinty character and, last but not least, Vertus and its tropical floral spectrum. All wines at Charles Heidsieck are entirely vinified in stainless steel with full malolactic fermentation. The previous vintage, 1995, is already a legendary wine and then there are of course the older vintages like: the athletic 1990, sensual 1985 and overly romantic 1983.
In 2004 yields were historically high. Of course, same goes for the quality. Champagne region suffered no hail damage or major spring frosts, and the fresh summer was followed by a warm, sunny September. This endorsed healthy (no botrytis or mildew problems), ripe grapes with satisfactory sugar, alcohol levels and perfect acidity. 2004 was an excellent vintage especially for Chardonnay. It's no surprise for me that Charles had chosen it for the new Blanc des Millénaires. At the time, Régis Camus — now at Piper — was the cellar master. For the blend of the 2004 he used 20 percent Chardonnay of each cru.
The privilege was mine to be invited — being a tremendous Charlie-freak — for a Charles Heidsieck lunch in Leuven, Belgium, where I got to taste the new Blanc des Millénaires prelaunched. I was lucky to arrive early so I could take my time to analyze - and of course enjoy - the wine. The glassware of Charles that looks like Lehmann Grand Champagne emphasized the autolytic and earthy elements in the aroma. The wine was served quite cold at first but warmed up fast. Later there was an excellent food pairing of codfish with risotto, wild mushrooms and verjuice. The bottle that was opened almost an hour in advance showed beautiful autumnal (almost foliage) notes and was a perfect symbiosis with the gastronomic dish. From the first sip to the last I was convinced that the 2004 is a beautiful Blanc des Millénaires. - 95 Punkte WINESPECTATOR, Alison Napjus: "A seamless Champagne, showing a texture of raw silk, this weaves vibrant acidity with an expressive range of glazed apple and poached white cherry fruit flavors, with pickled ginger and saffron spice details and rich notes of pastry cream, toast and coffee liqueur. More about finesse than power, this is long and creamy on the mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2028. 90 cases imported." - 96 Punkte DECANTER, Christelle Guibert: "The 2004 follows the legacy of the remarkable 1995. Grapes from four grands crus (Avize, Cramant, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger) and the premier cru Vertus. Purity, richness and tension too, with brioche and leesy characters and a hint of lemon. Dense and textured, yet elegant with a real taste of chalk and a very long finish. Spending 11 years on lees, it was disgorged in November 2016. Drinking well now, but one to leave in the cellar for some time. Drinking Window 2020 – 2028"
Disgorged November 2016. The current Cellar master Cyril Brun chose to add a dosage of nine grams. Light golden color with green reflections, a very refined effervescence and nice mousse in the glass. Seductive nose of lemon oil, apple blossom, candied kumquat, salted butter, almonds and lovely tobacco overtones together with a very distinctive almost austere minerality with flint, saffron, a haze of roasted coffee beans and the rustic scent of gray Tomme de Montagne cheese crust. The aroma is compact but after a longer while it opens up nicely with a wealth of citrus, cocoa butter, baked apple, foie gras with Sauternes, white truffle and gunpowder. After more than an hour the aroma evolved to French patisserie (frangipane) and crème anglaise. The mouthfeel is dynamic, and perfectly structured with concentration of flavors and depth. On the palate you get ripe Golden Delicious, citrus oil, dried fig, white cherry and a nice bitter touch of lemon zest and cumin with a suggestion of cognac and spices — almost like sauce Grand Veneur — on the mid-palate. It has all the autumnal romanticist flavors that I would expect from Charles. The finish is long and nicely rounded. The beauty lashes in with sexy citrus, pink grapefruit, candied lemon and kumquat. Only to come to a renewed phase spiced with walnuts, dried porcini mushrooms, Kampot pepper with a suggestion of roasted coffee and a tiny hint of graphite. In the distant aftertaste you also get delicious dark chocolate. In contrast with a painstakingly young champagne like Salon 2004, this wine is already very accessible to drink now and can age at least another twenty years. For now I would recommend to decant it. This 2004 is for me the new 1985! 90 points with 95 potential"
Strongly green tone. Even slightly oily on the nose – dramatic. Real bite and class. Great balance. Tiny bead. Super-elegant but not wimpy. Makes you salivate. Slightly salty note on the end. Confident, persistent finish."
- 95 Punkte WINESPECTATOR, Alison Napjus: "A seamless Champagne, showing a texture of raw silk, this weaves vibrant acidity with an expressive range of glazed apple and poached white cherry fruit flavors, with pickled ginger and saffron spice details and rich notes of pastry cream, toast and coffee liqueur. More about finesse than power, this is long and creamy on the mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2028. 90 cases imported."
- 96 Punkte DECANTER, Christelle Guibert: "The 2004 follows the legacy of the remarkable 1995. Grapes from four grands crus (Avize, Cramant, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger) and the premier cru Vertus. Purity, richness and tension too, with brioche and leesy characters and a hint of lemon. Dense and textured, yet elegant with a real taste of chalk and a very long finish. Spending 11 years on lees, it was disgorged in November 2016. Drinking well now, but one to leave in the cellar for some time. Drinking Window 2020 – 2028"- 18,5+ Punkte JANCIS ROBINSON: "Disgorged November 2016, and embargoed until released to sell in November 2017. All their Blanc des Millénaires go through full malo. Always 10 g/l dosage. Follow-on vintage from 1995!
|Produkt:||Champagner, Sekt & Co|
|Jancis Robinson:||18,5 JR|
|Reben:||100% Chardonnay (4 Grands Crus und 1 Premier Cru)|
|% vol Alk:||12,0|
|Notizen des Weinguts:||A VARIATION ON GREAT CHARDONNAYS Only Chardonnay is used in the blend of this exceptionally textured cuvée. From amongst the fabulous range offered by the Champagne region, 5 major Crus from the Côte des Blancs have been meticulously chosen for their ability to evolve as well as for their ability to express their full richness once fully mature: Oger for its unctuousness and structure, Mesnil-sur-Oger for balance, Avize for its minerality, Cramant for its complexity and Vertus for its freshness and floral notes. To the eye: A shimmering golden robe highlighted by delicate effervascence. To the nose: Elegant notes of lemon, apple blossoms, salted butter and almonds along with a toasted, buttery nuance of creme anglaise. On the palate: An initial palate of fresh citrus gives the wine a taut crispness, followed by agradually persistent force and intensity. The mouthfeel is dynamic and perfectly structured with a long and well-rounded finish. The Blanc des Millenaires style far surpasses the 2004 vintage. The rich texture is rooted in an vintage still young and taut: the refined elegant effervascence reveals a still juvenile minerality.|
|Potenziell allergene Substanzen:||Enthält Sulfite. Kann Spuren von Eiweiß, Gelatine und Milch enthalten.|
|Warnungen:||Der Konsum von alkoholhaltigen Getränken während der Schwangerschaft kann selbst in geringen Mengen schwere Konsequenzen für die Gesundheit des Kindes nach sich ziehen.|
|Hersteller:||Maison Charles Heidsieck, 12 Allée du Vignoble, F-51100 Reims|