Hebrart Marc
„Bei Hebrarts Champagner kommt stets Freude auf, so als hätte die Horn-Section von Earth, Wind & Fire gerade zum Blasen angesetzt, ....“, schreibt Christian Göldenboog in seinem wunderbaren Buch „Die Champagner Macher“. Wie Recht er damit hat, denn Marc Hebrart Champagner sind in der Tat herrlich zu trinken, sie sind dabei aber auch tiefgründig und voller Klasse, ausserdem auch preiswert!
Die Winzerchampagner aus dem Hause MARC HEBRART sind recht neu in meinem Sortiment und doch hat sich schon eine Fangemeinde gebildet. Ein Treffen mit Winzer Jean-Paul Hebrart, der den Betrieb schon 1983 im Alter von 19 Jahren übernommen hat, macht immer ebenso viel Spaß wie seine Champagner zu trinken. Er hat seinen Laden im Griff, ist sympathisch, freundlich und verbindlich. Doch lassen wir die Fachleute zu Wort kommen, um seine Stilistik zu beschreiben:
- David Schildknecht schrieb 2013 sehr treffend in Robert Parkers WINE ADVOCATE: „…Champagnes exhibiting perhaps so much sheer deliciousness that commentators simply overlook their profundity or forget how hard it is to achieve, vintage after vintage, such consistent clarity not to mention excellence.”
- Champagner Spezialist PETER LIEM: “Hébrart’s wines have a broad appeal: if you like to think about your wines, they’re intellectually engaging enough to satisfy you; on the other hand, if you’re just looking to drink, they’re simply delicious. The wines are full and generous without being weighty, complex and soil-driven without being demanding. Overall, the entire range is of consistently high quality, and Hébrart is quickly becoming one of the finest grower estates in the Grande Vallée. Happily, his wines also represent excellent value for the money, at least for the moment."
- TYSON STELZER in seinem Buch “The Champagne Guide 2016/17”: “His wines contrast elegant fruit expression with the mineral signature of great terroirs."
- GERHARD EICHELMANN: “Die Champagner von Jean-Paul Hebrart sind harmonisch und klar, besitzen reife Frucht, gute Fülle, Substanz und Frische, gewinnen stetig an Ausdruck und Nachhaltigkeit."
- Decanter: "Jean-Paul Hébrart has been in charge of his family’s estate since his father, Marc Hébrart, retired in 1997. He works 15ha of vines, most of which are in the sector of the Vallée de la Marne called the Grande Vallée, on the southern flanks of the Montagne de Reims, although he has some Chardonnay vines in the Côte des Blancs.
Hébrart advocates sustainable viticulture, avoiding synthetic treatments as much as possible, and he vinifies all of his parcels separately to preserve their distinct identities. While most of his wines are fermented in stainless steel, he began making a barrel-fermented Champagne in 2004, called Rive Gauche-Rive Droite. Hébrart is also a member of the Club Trésors de Champagne, a growers’ association that seeks to promote quality wines, and whose signature cuvée is the Spécial Club. Hébrart’s Spécial Club is one of the finest available, but his entire range of Champagnes is outstanding from top to bottom, and well worth seeking out."
- WINERY OF THE YEAR 2014 im WINE & SPIRITS MAGAZINE
- TERRY THEISE 2019 Terry Theise Estate Selections Champagne: "I tasted the most gorgeous and sensational group of young Champagnes I have ever tasted, this year at Marc Hébrart. Each year has built upon the one before, and on this mercurial March day—another of those rainbow-days we had this year—where there was often bright sun out of one window and black clouds out the other, I came to consider many things. Formed as questions, they asked: Does grower Champagne get any better than these? Does Champagne period get any better than these? Is it true (as someone said) that Hébrart is the “most underrated” producer in my portfolio? If it’s true, then why? Are the wines not weird enough?? Jean-Paul Hébrart is ill-at-ease at this sort of full-frontal praise. “I just keep pushing, trying to get better,” he says, and I’ve learned to be “cool” face to face. Nor do I need to contrive enthusiasm for the wines, as we’re already maxed out—he’s just 15 hectares, a little over 10,000 cases in a generous year. No, this time it’s about principle. And it’s simple: this is what first-class Champagne should taste like. And in this case, does! I don’t like to use exclusive superlatives (even when I feel they’re warranted), so I’ll use an old coinage I didn’t invent but which is helpful now: Marc Hébrart may not be the best” grower in Champagne, but no one is better. And, incidentally but significantly, if you seek the antidote to the world of weird-ass Champagnes issuing from (too) many of the millennial growers, come here, the door’s unlocked and the table’s set, and see how supernally great and absurdly beautiful Champagne can be. This was brought home in dramatic fashion a few weeks ago while tasting his Vins clairs, which were the our 5th or 6th group of young pre-tirage Champagnes I saw, as we made this, our 10th visit overall. Sitting in Jean-Paul’s mint-condition tasting room with its expanse of natural light and its lyrical view to the Marne canal— all part of a new facility one member of my “entourage” already dubbed “Chateau Hébrart” for its neoclassical exterior—I got the second of the wines in my glass and was so amazed, literally amazed, I said out loud “I mean, shit; even his Vins clairs are in a class by themselves.” Nods of assent and smiles around the room. Jean-Paul Hébrart, (or “JP” as he is known to his wife), was always a wonderful producer. When I began with him, the wines really walked a scintillating edge between strength of fruit and the utmost etching of flavor, so that you got deliciousness and precision. But now I think JP is in the zone, and notwithstanding “issues” around the most issue-ridden vintage of modern times (our cabbage friend 2011) the man has reached that odd silent place where every note you play is true (even the ones you didn’t think you could grab) and every swing you take hits the ball square."
Jean-Paul Hebrart verwendet für die Vergärung 50hl-Edelstahltanks, die Weine werden auf der Hefe ausgebaut und durchlaufen die malolaktische Gärung. Einige Versuche mit Holz gibt es auch, das Ergebnis ist der Rive Gauche / Rive Droite Grand Cru.
Seine 15 Hektar Rebflächen verteilen sich auf ca. 70 Parzellen in 10 Orten, der Fokus liegt auf Pinot Noir, ein Viertel der Rebfläche ist mit Chardonnay bestockt. Jede der Parzellen wird einzeln vinifiziert.
- TOM HEWSON auf Instagram: „were on super form. Composed, complete wines right through the range - must visit soon. Beautiful entry level NVs, but also the 2018 Special Club and super 2015s (Rive Gauche/Rive Droite and Clos le Léon). Wines that stood out.“
Champagnerhaus: Marc Hebrart
Menschen/Inhaber: Jean-Paul Hebrart
Region/Ort: Champagne, Mareuil sur Ay
