- 96 Punkte WINESPECTATOR und HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: "Polished, effortless and juicy, with blackberry, currant, black olive and tar flavors, beautifully balanced to rotate all its facets as the finish keeps spinning. Harmonious and expressive. Drink now through 2019. 754 cases made."
- 95 Punkte Robert Parkers WINE ADVOCATE: "The latest installment of Cayuse?s largest-production, their 2009 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard ? vinified largely in foudre and aged in previously used demi-muids ? features lightly-stewed cherry and purple plum laced with cinnamon stick and clove; garlanded in violet and acacia that point to the inclusion of Viognier; and underlain by salivary gland-engaging roasted but still bloody red, organ-like meaty savor. (And speaking of organs, there is a reverberative pedal-point of low-toned flavors here that engenders an awesome sense of depth.) Sappy and intensely-concentrated yet possessed of an admirable, almost uncanny sense of buoyancy; ultra-dense yet remarkably fine-grained, this adds black pepper and tar from the classic Syrah playbook to its long litany of flavors and lusciously long and vibrant finish. It?s easy to see how this would please a wine grower who reveres Noel Verset. I can?t imagine it commencing to signal a need to be drunk-up for at least another dozen years, and probably not until significantly later.
Just as the cobbled soils around Milton-Freewater captivated Champenois Christophe Baron?s imagination on what he calls ?a fateful April morning in 1996,? so the 100% estate-bottled wines he has grown in them since have amazed and inspired oenophiles to the extent of creating a veritable cult. ?I?m here because of the rocks,? says Baron, who, although he loved the Rhone as much as he did Burgundy, was at the time planning to grow Pinot in the Willamette Valley, ?and because I just happened to open a book and show a friend in Walla Walla what vineyards look like in Chateauneuf. ?I know where we have rocks like that,? he told me, and I said: ?Take me there tomorrow!?? ?The only way to tell how deep? the striking carpet of stones in his vineyards extends, says Baron ?is to go down a well.? Baron ? who emphasizes that he is conservative but at the same time scientifically rigorous about when and how much water to drip onto his vines ? was one of the few Washington growers I met who spoke about, much less offered some specifics regarding root penetration. ?In the summer ? after crop-thinning (is done) and the (bird) nets are on, we get bored, so we rent a backhoe and we dig holes. And by the third leaf (i.e. year) the roots are already ten feet down.? Laura Pursley ? who assists Baron in the vineyards (her fellow ?assistant vigneronne? and counterpart in the ?wine studio? ? Baron?s name for his facility ? is Elizabeth Bourcier) ? notes that ?opposite to what you?d think, it?s our sites with the highest clay content, with a bit more soil and less rock, that dry-out soonest.? From the inception of Cayuse, Baron commenced the painstaking work of generating his own vine selection from the clonally monotonous Syrah and Grenache material then available. From 2000 on, he has been taking advantage of the new diversity of clones available stateside and begun grafting these onto rootstock, explaining ?I believe that sooner or later phylloxera will make its way to Washington.? Baron?s most recent plantings of up to 4,840 vines per acre are, he believes, as high-density as any in North America and are horse-tilled, typically eight times a year. ?That?s how to get fruit ripe at lower brix; get unbelievable (tannic) structure; and unlock the gates of terroir,? he opines (offering elucidation I won?t detail on this occasion). Farming biodynamically since 2002, Baron?s approach ? which involves 25 full-time staff, one person per hectare ? appears as labor-intensive and detail-attentive as I have encountered anywhere in the world. The inaugural, 2011 Syrah from The Tribe ? his ultra-densely-planted latest vineyard ? is bound to attract intense scrutiny and devotion, and I suppose there is no point in withholding my opinion, based on tasting it from barrel in March and July, that both will be deserved. Another self-described ?epiphany? of Baron?s while bicycling into the Blue Mountain foothills in 2004 led to his latest vineyard start-up. ?A little heaven,? he calls it ? with the Walla Walla River rippling by; pastureland for his beloved vegetables and animals (some participants in biodynamics; some destined for the table); and vertiginous rocky slopes with vines trained to stakes (en echalas), make it the image of Cote Rotie. He unabashedly says he intends to make this ?one of America?s jewels in terms of viticulture; that every American wine aficionado knows; and a place I can be proud of. After this, I?ll have nothing to prove.? First crop: next year. I?ll have more to say on another occasion (as well as in certain of my tasting notes in this report) about the approach Baron and Bourcier take in the cellar, but a critical part of the big picture is his announcement that ?This year is it: I?ve bought my last barrique? used or new. The result ? even with Baron?s wines based on Bordelais cepages ? will be a regimen consisting of fermentation in wooden foudre or concrete tank and elevage in 600-liter demi-muids supplemented by foudre. And a trend begun already five or six years ago will continue: toward utilizing decreasing percentages of new oak. ?There was a trend ? especially in Washington and California ? toward all new barrels? from the most fashionable couple of tonneliers, notes Baron, ?but what we found out is, the new wood dries out the wine.? (?Well, duh!? would have to be my own smart-ass reply.) ?And,? adds Bourcier, ?we?ve found that a wine can go quite quickly from well-balanced to overly oaky and drying, which is why we often take them out of barrel early,? i.e. well ahead of bottling. (Notes on Baron?s small-volume project known as No Girls will be found under that name, as it refers to a self-standing winery.)."
- 95 Punkte WINE ENTHUSIAST: "Always a standout, this is the only one of the Cayuse Syrahs that is cofermented with Viognier. This explodes with flavors of blueberries, soy, earth, black tea, iodine, anise and salt, plus a hint of sassafras. Notes of herb and cured meat add further interest to this unique, captivating effort."
|Wine Enthusiast:||95 WE|
|Parker Wine Advocate:||95 RPWA|
|% vol Alk:||14,8|
|Notizen des Weinguts:||Cayuse Vineyards is the first winery in the Walla Walla Valley to fully implement biodynamic farming methods in its vineyards. Biodynamism is chemical-free farming that produces both healthier soil and food. It is the only kind of agriculture to take both the soil and the cosmos into account in helping the vines grow in perfect harmony with the forces of the universe. ?If you understand that the moon moves oceans, you can also understand that the moon exerts an influence on vines,? said Christophe Baron, vigneron and owner of Cayuse Vineyards. ?We want to produce the best wines possible,? said Baron. ?Healthy vines make healthy wines. Our vines have always been grown organically, so biodynamism was the next logical step to take.? Since 2002, Cayuse has consulted with Philippe Armenier, a biodynamic farming specialist and previous owner of Domaine de Marcoux, a world-renowned winery in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France. Using Armenier?s expert advice, Cayuse crushed it?s first biodynamic certified fruit in the 2004 vintage. ?I noticed many of the best French producers have been switching from conventional growing methods to biodynamism over the last decade. After tasting their wines, I talked to them to find out more and became convinced that it was a necessary step for Cayuse to take,? said Baron. Using biodynamism, producers such as Chapoutier in the Rhône, Marcel Deiss in Alsace, Coulée de Serrant in the Loire, Jacques Selosse in Champagne, Domaine Leroy in Burgundy, Domaine LeFlaive in Burgundy, and Domaine de Marcoux in Chateauneuf-du-Pape make some of the finest, most sought-after wines in France. Cayuse Vineyards is a 100 percent estate vineyard located in the Walla Walla. Best known for its highly acclaimed Syrah, Cayuse currently creates 12 estate wines from fruit harvested on 51 acres of vines planted in ancient riverbed rock. In fact, the word ?Cayuse? refers to the Native American tribe named by French-Canadian traders from the French ?cailloux,? which means ?stones.? A native of France, Baron developed a passion for farming growing up in his family?s centuries-old Champagne House, Baron Albert.|
|Potenziell allergene Substanzen:||Enthält Sulfite. Kann Spuren von Eiweiß, Gelatine und Milch enthalten.|
|Importeur:||Weinhandlung Martin Apell, Eugen Richter Strasse 109, 34134 Kassel|
|Warnungen:||Der Konsum von alkoholhaltigen Getränken während der Schwangerschaft kann selbst in geringen Mengen schwere Konsequenzen für die Gesundheit des Kindes nach sich ziehen.|
|Hersteller:||Cayuse Vineyards, PO Box 1602, Walla Walla , WA 99362, USA|